Replacement of Parts

With Bailer closed, pull apart bent wire piece to remove the plastic black (or white) spacer (see note). The bailer itself will come out through the bottom of the boat by pushing down past the flange and sliding it aft. You will see a black gasket.

These gaskets are sponge rubber. The gasket is held in place by an adhesive. Using a knife, chisel or screwdriver remove the old gasket completely. If the old adhesive is still in place remove it with a solvent like lacquer thinner.

Remove the protective paper from the replacement gasket. Carefully position the gasket and push it down firmly. You may find the new gasket is much thicker than the old and doesn’t appear to fit – it should be a tight fit, this is a good thing! You can take a putty knife to gently compress the end to fit under the clip.

Replace the bailer slide in reverse order taking care not to damage or gouge the gasket.

NOTE: It is very important that the bailer is re-installed correctly – memorize the position, or snap a photo with your cell phone before you begin so that when you put it back together the bailing portion is facing the correct position (aft).

The bow number holders can be installed using a variety of materials. We use a high bond hot melt glue (to be used with a hot melt glue gun). But you can use Sikaflex (or 3M 5200), or even a two part epoxy (just make sure it is compatible with both fiberglass and plastic). Another simple and quick alternative is double faced foam tape by 3M.

Mark the placement of the holder on the bow deck and make a mark where it goes then remove.

Use a Scotchbrite pad to lightly scuff up the area of deck that the bow number holder will cover.

Clean area with acetone.

Turn the boat so that the hull is facing up.

Choose one of the following 3 adhesives to install:

Hot Melt Glue: Put a line of hot melt glue on the number holder and place on boat.

Sikaflex: follow instruction for hot melt glue, except that you will need to clean up any excess with acetone before the Sikaflex cures.

Two Part Epoxy: follow manufacturers’ instructions.

Install using double faced foam tape after cleaning both surfaces.

Optional: You can then screw or rivet through the holes on the deck if desired. Be sure to use stainless screws.

Allow to cure completely.

If your compass has come loose, been knocked or fallen out, this is the procedure to insure proper re-installation.

First look inside the port to see if you can find the wedge of stringer material that was used to hold the compass against the deck when it was first installed. You will need this or something comparable in order to do this job. This piece goes between the bottom of the compass and the top of the part of the vertical stringer that was modified to allow for the compass originally.

Clean all traces of old silicone off the compass as well as the inside under the deck first.

Use a piece of masking tape 2″ wide to make a little tab/handle on the lens of the compass. This is what you will hold the compass in place with, in order to put the wedge back into place.

Put more silicone than you think you need on the rim of the compass that mates with the deck and put it back into position. Hopefully lots of excess silicone will come out the top completely sealing the cutout.

Wedge the piece of closed cell foam/stringer material back into place.

Make sure to get the orientation correct by twisting a little one way or the other until the reference points are lined up with the center-line of the boat. Use a string stretched from bow to stern if necessary.

Clean up excess silicone using a rubber squeegee, then finish clean up with denatured alcohol.

Wipe the Boat off in the area where you wish to apply a decal with denatured alcohol and dry with a clean paper towel.

Rub decal on paper side (not clear side).

Peel paper off keeping the decal adhered to the plastic – work slowly.

Position the decal on the boat and rub firmly but carefully.

Remove plastic covering.

Take a picture of your damaged tab to record proper orientation.

Grind off the damaged tab. Do not try to pry or chisel it off.

Clean the smooth face of the new tab using acetone. It is already abraded to create a surface that will grab your adhesive.

Maas uses Lord 406/19 acrylic adhesive. This requires a special applicator gun which is a costly tool, so you may choose a two-part epoxy (such as Jenn Weld).

Maas uses a jig to ensure correct alignment and orientation. You should take a photo of your old tab as a reference.

Ensure the hole for the shaft of the square bolt is not blocked by your adhesive. A plug of paper towel may keep that hole clean.

The fin is glued in with a clear silicone sealant available at paint and hardware stores. Make sure the one you choose is waterproof. We use the brand ‘GE’ door and window sealant “Silicone II”.

To remove the fin use pliers or vice-grips. Grab the fin’s back corner using a piece of cloth to protect the fin. Gently and firmly pull. If it’s very stubborn, very carefully use a putty knife to help break it free.

To replace the fin, clean out the old silicone in the slot with a putty knife or razor blade. Clean up with denatured alcohol. Protect hull and fin from excess silicone with masking tape. Fill slot with silicone and press fin into slot. Remove excess silicone with a rubber spatula or putty knife.

Place a piece of masking tape across the fin to hold in place while drying. Allow to dry 24 hours.

Remove Seat horns and clean off old Sikaflex.

Apply a small amount of marine adhesive (Sikaflex or 3M 5200) to the feet on the seat.

Attach seat horns using existing screws in the existing holes.

Remove Seat horns and clean off old Sikaflex.

Pre-drill 1/8” holes in seat (using the block as a template) to mount the blocks. Be careful not to drill clear through the seat.

Apply a small amount of marine adhesive (Sikaflex or 3M 5200) to the feet on the seat.

Mount spacer blocks with #8 x 1” flathead, Stainless sheet metal screws.

Apply another small amount of adhesive to the blocks and use existing screws to reattach seat horns.

Remove old track by first removing screws then gently pulling the track up off the deck. If it is stuck very well, then use a putty knife to gently pry it loose.

Clean boat deck, thoroughly removing all excess silicone.

Lay a generous bead of fresh silicone down the length of the replacement track

Put into position on boat and replace the screws.

Allow to cure completely, usually 24 hours.

Open port on seat deck and loosen the wing nuts located inside the hull.

Remove the track ends from the forward end of the track.

Slide the track aftwards (towards the footstretchers) off the “T” bolts, gently lifting the aft end as you go. The track will come off at the point that is indexed.

Remove calf guard.

Replace necessary items and reinstall following directions in reverse order.

Wipe off bonding area on shell with cleaner

Remove paper backing from tape. Don’t touch tape.

Line up splash guard, forward “V” part first.

Starting at “V”, lay down each edge of splash guard, one side at a time, lining up the edges as you go.

Rub down firmly so taped edges really stick.

Remove the bolt from the threaded insert.

Put a couple of drops of red thread locker on the inside diameter of the hole in the boat

Place the insert on the hole (slotted side up) and gently screw insert into place to just below the level of the deck.

Let sit for a couple of hours (to be on the safe side) before installing the wing.